G2 Bakflip Tonneau Review

  This G2 Bakflip Tonneau Cover Review is based a persons experience after he had purchased the Bakflip tonneau and installed on his truck. I hope you find it usefull in your quest to find out if this truck bed cover is right for your personal use.

  Since there has been so much discussion on the G2 Bakflip Tonneau Cover I have created this Bakflip tonneau review. After a self install, here are a few insights for those who are considering this truck bed cover. This has to do with the G2 version. Here are some photos, too -- showing what is being described.

a)  The install of Bak's new G2 version is very straightforward.
The posted details for installing (elsewhere) are very thorough but apply mostly to the G1. A lot of the nagging issues of the G1 install (not that there were many) are eliminated.

b)  There is no drilling required of the Aluminum Plates near the cab. There's no need to crawl under the bed cover to mark holes, etc. This step has been resolved by Bak from the previous G1 version having pre-drilled four large holes that receive studs which are secured by four turn knobs below the cover. There are no nuts involved.

c)  The advantage of this new design is it allows you to make adjustments of the Cover tighter to the cab wall, if needed later. And you can remove it completely very easily. So if you detect water leakage from rain you can loosen these, bump the cover forward a bit, and re-tighten. Nice idea for the bakflip tonneau cover!

d)  The concept (that I've seen discussed elsewhere) that the Bakflip tonneau cover does not rob you of any space in the Bed is a little misleading. The shelf section nearest the cab remains in place while in use with the sections folded forward. Therefore, you "lose" about 12" up against the cab wall with the tilted sections still in place. The last shelf area does not fold. Of course, the region below is all open to the cab wall, but you are blocked from sitting a tall standing object flush up against the cab wall.

  This may sound more severe than other types of Truck Bed Cover installs -- but it really isn't. This "loss" is only temporary because you can remove those 4 knobs, remove the cover in a folded state, and stow it inside the rear seat area of the cab if you had to, say, carry home a refrigerator. I'm not sure if other style bed cover systems allow you to do this, especially this easy.

e)  Some people have concluded that the new Rod Support system is less convenient than the compression cylinders used on the G1. Some accuse this new setup of rattling. The person who this review is based on said that his does not do so. You can see that the Rods are equipped with rubber tips. If anything, these could stand to be a bit longer by about 1 more inch to clear the sliding track that it pops into. You then tighten the small Knob shown in the pictures. I found this to be a very snug and easy solution. You can easily adjust how much pressure you want to apply to stiffen the folded sections against the rear window area.

f)  Note that there are two sets of latches on this G2 -- I'm not sure if they both existed before on the G1. That means you can fold the cover open part-way while still keeping the final sections locked to the Rails.

Notice the small D Rings in the one photo -- nearest the cab wall. These are there for you to provide your own Bungee Cords to keep the folded sections from flopping up and down when you hit heavy bumps. Nice touch!                               

g)  Notice that the 4 Knobs below the shelf near the cab wall all have rubber washers, as well as matching steel washers, as well as locking washers -- all below the shelf. Above the shelf you can see the two dark large-size "disks" near the D-Rings -- these are the tops of the Studs that the Locking Knobs screw into. These have rubber washers, as well. You do not need to really crank down hard on these Knobs -- just a snug tightening is enough. Good idea!

h)  There are, in fact, two small screws that have to be installed. So, technically, we can't say this is a truly "drill-free" installation. In this case, a power screwdriver / drill does help. But be careful of too much torque. These screws are at the end of each of the Rails, nearest the Tailgate. They add extra support to the Rails and make them more rigid. These are Self-Tapping -- you do not want to drill pilot holes for these. Unless you are screwing them in by hand. They do penetrate through the sides of the Bed Liner, creating about a 1/8" to 3/16" hole. Heads are painted black, for a nice touch on this bakflip tonneau cover.

   Complaints? NOT A LOT!!
I did not experience any of the shoddy fabrication that some have complained about in the early G1 version.

• Yes, there are some residual chalk markings (probably white Stabilo pencil marks -- easily removable). 
• Yes, there were minor areas of glue that seeped out from under the aluminum framing around one section of the folding cover (I trimmed them off carefully with a knife). 
• Yes, the Instructions are terrible -- bad photos, etc. They need a downloadable PDF at their website (printing out the webpage is frustrating). 
• And, yes, I will take a small file to some of the exposed metal edges to save my knuckles, later. 
• Yes, there were a few nicks in the aluminum framing on the Rails and around the folding sections (a little touch-up paint will cure that). 

   One small issue on the bakflip tonneau cover seems to be correcting itself as the cover sections settle-in from exposure to sun, etc. -- the Rear Latches did not seem to want to catch on their own, at first. The sweet spot to push down a bit and force the issue is directly above them -- about 5 inches from the Tail Gate. Yes, you can pull down on the cable underneath on either side -- and it releases both catches at the same time (no need to walk back and forth).

  No, you cannot close the Tailgate while the sections are all laying flat. This is by design, so the rear-most rubber weather-stripping can rest directly on top of the Tail Gate. Just lift that last flap a tiny bit, close the Gate, set the Latches on the Cover Section (I just noticed that they now seem to be latching just fine after they had time to settle into place).

   The one photo here of the bakflip tonneau cover on the Honda Ridgeline shows that the Trunk Lid does, unfortunately, hit the side Rails where the bump-out on the Trunk Lid occurs. If you want to judge how restricted this is, simply lift your lid until that area is in line with the first hard curve line of the side wall. That's about the height limit you will have. Hopefully, this one tip was worth you wading through this lengthy review!

Another way to see what the restricted lift height is? Raise the Trunk Lid about 22-1/4" as measured from the inside top edge of its lock well indentation (at the top of the Trunk "tub", even with the bed floor) to the very bottom front center edge of the Lid. That's about the access you'll have. I do not see a way to notch anything to make it open all the way because that would cut into the Support Rods in their resting position. Or you'd have to notch the Trunk Lid for the bakflip tonneau cover on the Honda Ridgeline. I would not advise that.

   In case you are wondering, Bakflip claims this cover does work with all Bed Extenders. I bought one of those $39 ones, but have not installed it.

   Biggest problem? Finding that T50 Torx fitting (which I did not have) so I could remove the larger screw bolts in the bed turned a 20 minute job into an almost all day adventure.

   I hope I did not bore you guys and gals with yet another bed install tale. But I thought there were several key points about the G2 Bakflip tonneau cover that have not been clearly explained. Had I not wasted nearly a day finding the T50 Torx Socket, I think this install would have taken maybe 20 minutes. I cannot imagine an easier installation on a removable, and very solid, bed cover than this G2 Bakflip Tonneau Cover.

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